
Cruising Norway’s Coast with Hurtigruten
Tripsmiths team member Lucy Page recently boarded MS Trollfjord for a six-day cruise from Tromsø to Bergen on one of Hurtigruten's Signature Voyages. If you've never cruised with Hurtigruten or sailed the scenic coast of Norway, read on as she recalls her time on board and why a cruise of Norway should feature high on your bucket list.

Cruising Norway's fjords and coast has always featured high on my bucket list, and having worked in travel for over eight years, I've always wanted to do it on board a Hurtigruten ship. For over 130 years, Hurtigruten has connected communities to the coast and I was fascinated to learn that Hurtigruten translates into English as 'fast route'. Even to this day, locals use the service to get from place to place.
Their Original Coastal Express voyages are where it all began, and continue to transport people, their cars and goods up and down Norway's coast - allowing you to travel like a local. Calling at 34 ports twice on a round-trip voyage, the ports you visit northbound in the daytime will be visited at night going southbound - and vice versa - meaning you see every port. On this route, you could visit up to six ports a day, however, the time spent in port could vary between 10 minutes and four hours, depending on its size.
I was fortunate to travel on one of their Signature Voyages - the North Cape Line - which sails in autumn, winter and spring. We were on the southbound route from Tromsø to Bergen (via the North Cape), meaning we spent a longer period of time (up to 12 hours) in a different port every day. Hurtigruten also runs a Svalbard Line (which can also be booked as a round trip or a half-voyage), which sails in the summer and autumn and takes you up to Svalbard, and the last town before the North Pole.

When cruising with Hurtigruten, not only do you see the coast, you get to taste it too. Working with 50 local farms, bakeries, and producers from across Norway, the food and drink you are served in the bars and restaurants couldn't be fresher, more local or more in season. From the pastries and condiments at breakfast, to the delicious fish, seafood and meats you'll find at lunch and dinner, the menus even tell you where the ingredients are from - for example, cod from Dragøy, reindeer from Mydland, or the short travelled cheese course.
When booking a Signature Voyage, you are all inclusive - with all your meals covered, as well as unlimited tea and coffee, and selected beverages. On board MS Trollfjord, there are two main restaurants to dine at: Flora, which is open for a buffet breakfast and lunch, and à la carte dinner; and Brasserie Árran, which is open for lunch and dinner (à la carte). The menu in Flora changes daily, while in Árran, it's fixed - but there's plenty of choice for you to try something new every day.
There is also the fine dining restaurant, Røst, which is included for suite guests and open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea. If you've booked a cabin, there is the possibility to upgrade to dine at Røst (at a supplement, with a wine pairing option also available) - and I'd highly recommend it, if you're into fine dining experiences and Michelin-starred restaurants, or simply just a foodie.
Of all the things I tried during the cruise, some of my favourites included the snow crab, cut of reindeer with pickled radish, and the Coastal Salad (with Norwegian beets, chevre from Haukeli and honey-caramelised walnuts). I even tried the Norwegian take on a Moscow Mule - the Oslo mule - which was so refreshing.

The expedition team enhance your voyage, both on board and ashore. On MS Trollfjord, the team is much larger, and their knowledge and insights prove invaluable on your journey. You can head to the lecture hall to hear talks on a number of topics, from the history of the destinations you visit and the native wildlife, to the Northern Lights or Midnight Sun (depending on the time of year you travel). On board, you can also attend art classes, local food tastings on deck and join the photo club - learning tips and tricks to improve your skills, especially when it comes to capturing the Northern Lights. Lectures could be watched live (or on demand, on the television in your cabin, if you couldn't make it to the lecture hall).
Norwegians are known for their love of the outdoors and the expedition team encourage you to embrace this way of life, offering suggestions for local walks and hikes, with the opportunity to book hiking excursions too. Every day in port, printed maps were readily available at the Coastal Experience Team desk, and these pointed out local points of interest, as well as recommended walking routes. If you had not booked an excursion, this was a great way of exploring ashore.

When cruising on the North Cape Line, you can depart from Bergen or Oslo, and one of the things that sets Hurtigruten apart from other cruise lines is that they call at ports that many of the larger liners cannot reach. With over 130 years of experience, travelling the coast all year round, you also get to visit hidden gems that no one else knows about.
On our itinerary, we stopped off at a lovely fishing village, Lødingen, located on the southwestern shore of the island, Hinnøya. Here, we visited Dampskipsbrygga, Lødingen's former wharf, which had been lovingly restored using its original materials, learning all about the history of the village, coastal culture and how Hurtigruten sailed in times gone by.
At every port, there are a choice of excursions, which vary from thrill-seeking experiences such as husky rides and quad biking, to hiking and fishing, and even historical tours and museum visits. If you've not booked an excursion prior to joining the ship, the Expedition Team are more than happy to help and you can book on board - just be mindful that some of the more popular excursions may sell out.
One of the best experiences was travelling to the North Cape (Nordkapp), the northernmost point in Europe, from the port of Honningsvåg. This was a bucket list experience for me, that I was pleased to tick off. As well as stunning scenery, we saw the iconic globe sculpture, and learned about the history of Finnmark and the North Cape at the visitor centre. The fresh air was so good for the soul. Another fantastic experience in Alta was a visit to the Igloo Hotel - crafted from snow and ice, local artists decorate the hotel with the most exquisite ice sculptures. This year's theme was Greek mythology and it really was spectacular.

Hurtigruten are fully committed to sustainability and ensuring that Norway is the world's most sustainable travel destination. There are so many things they are doing, including developing their ships, upgrading their fleet and reducing waste, in particular, food waste. During a Q&A session with some of the crew in the lecture hall, we were able to hear more on some of these credentials. These include:
- Minimising energy use through new propeller blades, bows, gears and control systems
- Streamlining the ships' hulls to minimise drag when sailing
- Free from single-use plastics
- Reducing food waste by composting and turning into fertiliser to support local farms, who in turn, supply fresh produce to the ships
- Enhanced wastewater systems to reduce emissions at sea

We were also really fortunate to see the Northern Lights during the trip - not just once, but three times. I'd actually seen them from my back garden in Buckinghamshire twice last year, but I wasn't willing to tick that off my bucket list. Seeing the Northern Lights in Norway was a dream - visible with the naked eye, it was a special experience out on deck, mingling with guests and learning the best way to photograph them to cherish the memories. Tip: turn the phone in your cabin on for updates, as during the night, the bridge team will let you know if the Northern Lights are visible.
The trip not only lived up to, but surpassed my expectations and there really is no better way to immerse yourself in Norway's scenic wonders, culture and cuisine.
Our recommendations:
- Join astronomer John Mason MBE on one of two dates, as you cruise the iconic Coastal Express route
- Go in search of the Northern Lights on this 12-day Bergen roundtrip cruise